Piercing Knowledge from Angie

Piercing Care & Knowledge

Septum, helix, dermal, or nostril — every piercing heals differently and follows its own rules. Angie, our piercing specialist, has put together the questions she hears most often at the studio: what good placement looks like, how long healing takes, and how to spot a real infection.

Why this page exists

Most piercing care questions repeat themselves — Angie answers them several times a day at the studio. This page collects her knowledge so you can look it up whenever you need it. It doesn't replace individual advice, though: if anything feels off, just stop by.

Piercing by piercing

Septum

A septum piercing should ideally sit not in the cartilage but in the soft fold of tissue between the tip of the nose and the septum itself — the so-called sweet spot. Pierced too close to the tip, the needle hits cartilage instead: the result is a noticeably longer healing time and more pain, even years later when it gets bumped. A slightly crooked septum is completely normal for most people — what matters is working with it professionally. Healing time: 2–6 months.

Nostril

Placement is individual: for a single nostril piercing we recommend the center of the nostril, about 6–8mm from the edge and not in the crease. Just as important is the piercing angle — 90° is ideal, since both studs and close-fitting rings sit well at that angle. A steeper angle only works for very tight-fitting rings, and too flat an angle offers no benefit for rings. Because three layers of tissue need to fuse into one continuous channel here, healing takes noticeably longer at 8–12 months.

Helix

There are two variants on the ear: the classic helix piercing in the fold at the rim, and the scapha piercing on the flatter area next to it — depending on anatomy and preference, we place the piercing wherever it sits best. Because it sits in cartilage, healing takes 6–9 months. The initial jewelry is deliberately a bit longer than needed, to leave room for the initial swelling, and gets shortened ('downsizing') after 6–8 weeks — that's included in the price. Important: skip that appointment, and you risk proud flesh or the channel growing shut around the jewelry. For the first swap to a ring or other jewelry, come by only once healing is fully complete — we'll help with that.

Industrial

A classic industrial piercing needs a helix rim that's pronounced enough to stand out — if it sits too flat against the head, the classic version won't work. That's not a dealbreaker, though: with the right jewelry, the industrial look can still be achieved on different anatomy, for example as a claw grip or mid-helix variant. Every anatomy is different — together we'll find what works and looks best on you.

Dermal & Surface

Dermal and surface piercings sit at the surface of the skin and count as long-term temporary: they typically last 2 to 10 years, occasionally much longer. During the piercing, a small pocket forms under the skin to hold the jewelry — it sits a bit loose at first and only tightens up over time. For the first three weeks, especially at night, a plaster is part of the routine: it protects against accidentally snagging the jewelry out and presses it deeper into the tissue, which noticeably improves how long it lasts. We tend to advise against heavily-moved body areas, and losing the jewelry usually leaves a small scar behind.

How piercings heal

Piercings heal from the outside in: a new layer of skin, the so-called piercing channel, forms around the jewelry. How long that takes depends heavily on the spot — earlobes heal comparatively fast, cartilage piercings like helix need 6–12 months because the tissue has less blood flow, while oral piercings often take just 3–4 months thanks to the well-supplied mucous membrane. Most important in the first 1–3 months: clean regularly and never touch or scratch it.

Spotting an infection

Not every irregularity is an infection — often it's just irritation. Signs of that include redness, mild sensitivity, or small bumps. A real infection shows up as unusual swelling, strong sensitivity, and dark or colored discharge; a whitish-yellow fluid, on the other hand, is normal during healing — that's just lymph fluid rinsing the piercing. The most common causes are dirt and bacteria, but also low-quality jewelry: sterling silver oxidizes in the skin and is a hard no, and stainless steel or cheap jewelry doesn't belong in a still-healing piercing. Titanium in implant grade (ASTM F-136) is the best choice. When in doubt: leave the jewelry in and see a piercer soon — removing it can trap the infection instead. Even if your piercing wasn't done by us, feel free to stop by anytime without an appointment; depending on the effort involved, we charge €5–10 for it.

Proud flesh

Proud flesh usually forms from ongoing pressure or movement — for example, when a cartilage piercing doesn't get downsized in time. There's no miracle cream for it, either: any treatment only helps for as long as the actual cause of the irritation remains. What matters is finding and removing that cause — and never twisting, scratching, or pulling at it. The fastest way to sort it out is together with a piercer you trust.

The core rules

  • The first 1–3 months are when a fresh piercing is most vulnerable to infection — regular cleaning is non-negotiable.
  • Never change jewelry too early, however tempting — it tends to prolong healing rather than speed it up.
  • With a real infection, leave the jewelry in and see a piercer, not a pharmacy.
  • Only implant-grade titanium (ASTM F-136) for fresh and healing piercings — no sterling silver, no cheap jewelry.

From the studio floor

I get almost the same questions every day — so I put the essentials together here instead of explaining them one by one. In the end, every anatomy and every healing process is a bit individual, but the core rules hold for almost everyone.

If your piercing feels off or you're unsure about anything: better to stop by once too often than not enough. It costs you nothing but five minutes, and I'd much rather take a quick look than see an infection that could have been caught early.

— Angie, piercing specialist at Medusa Tattoo Munich

Questions about your piercing?

Send us a quick message about what's going on — Angie or the team will get back to you.